As Broadway is to upper New York, so is
Grand Street to the Lower East Side. Here and in the streets
immediately adjoining, one sees what lower Manhattan considers "the
glass of fashion and the mould of form." Of "form" there may be
something lacking, but fashion is there in full force. Grand Street
out - Broadways Broadway. Here one sees all the styles ever devised
by the brain of man sees them in all their glory, having their
fullest scope, allowed to expand at their own sweet will. Does
Broadway wear a feather? Grand Street dons two, without loss of
time. Are trailing skirts seen in Fifth Avenue? Grand Street trails
its yards with a dignity all its own. Are daring color effects sent
over from Paris? The rainbow hides its diminished head before Grand
Street on a Sunday afternoon. Grand Street is Broadway plus Fifth A
venue, only very much more so. Its wide sidewalks show more fashion
to the square foot on a Sunday than any other part of the city.
"MILLINERY LANE."
In Grand Street the East Side buys its dresses, coats, and a
thousand and one other things. For its hats it goes to Division
Street, which begins its picturesque career at Chatham Square and
runs along to Clinton Street. From Chatham Square, for the length of
a couple of blocks or so, the neighborhood christens the street
"Millinery Lane" for good and obvious reasons. Let no unwary
traveler, unversed in the ways of the East Side shopkeeper, set foot
in this spot, under pain of being forced to buy the most marvelous
creations of the modiste's brain that were ever designed to assist
Cupid in subjugating the heart of man (East Side man). There are
fully twenty millinery stores in the "lane," and each store has one
or more "sidewalk ladies" to "pull in." The term "puller-in" is not
wrongly applied. They smile seductively as they ask, "Anything in a
stylish hat, ma'am?" If the fascination does not work properly, the
puller-in gently but firmly takes hold of the arm of the passer-by
and proceeds to argue the question. These enterprising ladies devise
the hat fashions for the Lower East Side. The system is simple.
Whatever a hat may lack in quality, there is never anything to be
desired in the matter of quantity. The East Side, though poor enough
in all truth, is ever-generous. So far as the people can afford,
there is no stint in hospitality or charity, and the same rule is
applied to hats.
It is not easy for an unpracticed eye to judge the quantity of
chiffon or silk used on an ordinary summer hat, but on one recently
seen in Millinery Lane' there was a bulwark certainly no less than
ten inches high all around the huge brim of the creation. And it
cost only $4 - all that chiffon for $4 - not to mention the handful
center! Purple and yellow is a favorite combination, and may
truthfully be said , to give more show for the money than any other
effect. Black, except in large black velvet hats with feathers, is
not popular. When a black straw is used, a microscope is needed to
distinguish it at the bottom of a pyramid of peacock colors. The
average East Side girl who earns a few dollars every week and is not
in destitute circumstances buys every winter a hat with feathers. It
is always a large one, and sometimes it groans beneath the weight of
nearly or quite a dozen plumes which may once have called an ostrich
their parent, although it is certain that the bird would disown her
offspring at sight could she again see them.
NOTHING IF NOT UP TO DATE.
It is to hats that the young girl's fancy lightly turns not only in
spring, but in autumn also. She cares for dress, but it would be
impossible to maintain throughout the high standard of elegance set
by the headgear. Nevertheless she does very well in this respect.
The "habit back" flourished on the East Side from the first moment
of its arrival from Paris. If skirts are long, no self-respecting
girl would be seen in any costume that did not sweep a yard or two
behind. If sleeves are tight, she would consider it a disgrace to be
able to raise her arms above her head. She ties her neck scarf as
low on the waist of her dress as it is shown in Paris fashions and
just a little lower - at the same minute that Fifth Avenue adopts
the same style. If over skirts are worn, there is nothing else to be
seen in Grand Street. But in the matter of dresses, it is natural
that the East Side should be strictly up-to-date, for does it not
furnish clothes for the rest of the town? If my lady wears a velvet
gown, put together for her in an East Side sweatshop, may not the
girl whose tired fingers fashioned it rejoice her soul by
astonishing Grand Street with a copy of it on the next Sunday? My
lady's is in velvet, and the East Side girl's is in the cheapest of
cloth, but it's the style that counts.
The artistic taste of the East Side men
is also highly developed, but the cruel hand of fashion has shut to
them the door to its full enjoyment. Only in the matter of collars,
neckties, and socks can their fancy display itself. But if the field
is restricted, it is worked with energy. There are "sports" and "hot
sports" and "stiffs." The "sport" is known by his necktie or his
socks. The point is to combine on the small space allowed as many
colors as possible. Purple and lavender, green and red, dark and
light blue make contrasts which, as the wearers say, are "not to be
beat." A "hot sport" is the common or garden "sport" in the
superlative. A "stiff" is known by his collar. There are many gilded
youths on the East Side who would never be guilty of wearing a
"stand up" collar when "high turndowns" were in fashion.
Is it funny, or is it pathetic? One is at a loss to decide, and
compromises by a smile and sigh. The girls enjoy it, and they are so
pretty, many of them, that two dozen feathers, instead of merely a
paltry ten or twelve, could not make them anything but attractive.
As to the men, they are hardly attractive at the best, and after
all, a manly heart beats as truly under a green and red striped
shirt as under one of purest white. It is only an expression of love
of beauty. It does not happen to be the right idea of beauty, but it
fills a place in the human soul which is better filled with even an
idol of clay than left empty. Is it better for a girl to neglect her
personal appearance or to deck herself with rubbish? If the latter
is vulgar, the first is unwomanly, and the East Side may safely be
said to have chosen the lesser evil.
GIRLS WITH GOOD TASTE.
There need not be any evil to choose,
however, as many East Side girls realize. Not all overdress, by any
means. The uptown world is always underestimating the amount of
refinement to be found in the tenements of lower Manhattan. Many
girls dress neatly, stylishly, and tastefully, and the mystery of
their toilets is often amusingly explained. One story will
illustrate. The writer recently had occasion to go out of town on a
Sunday in company with a girl whose family is in genuine poverty.
People of less indomitable pride, of less intense self-respect,
would long ago have applied for help instead of eating bread and
water day after day. At the appointed hour the girl appeared,
dressed not only well, but stylishly. She had a good figure, and she
was positively "stunning." One who did not know East Side girls
would have said, uncharitably, that the heartless young woman was
spending on clothes the money needed to buy bread for her old mother
and small sisters. But a few friendly words turned the conversation
to the subject of dress, and the mystery was explained. The waist,
thin and charmingly cool-looking, she had made herself, buying the
material from a Hester pushcart for 20 cents. Its "style" came from
the really handsome neck arrangement, which she had made herself;
she worked at neckwear, and the "boss" had allowed her to take the
odds and ends from which she had fashioned the pretty thing. The
skirt, her brother-in-law, who "works at skirts," had made for her
at odd times, and it cost, getting the material at wholesale, $2.50.
Her hat, her chum made at an expense of 60 cents. To the uninitiated
the costume represented an outlay of $20, at least, although she had
achieved it at an expense of $3.30, and was able to go abroad
without proclaiming to the world the dire poverty at home. Her
cleverness and the kindness of others had saved the proud old mother
a severe humiliation. There are many such on the East Side.
But, although such girls are not rare, the other kind forms the
great majority. It is apparently a part of the process of becoming
Americanized. The girl whose Russian mother knew but the wig of the
religious Jewess and a soft shawl, the girl who, had she remained in
bright Italy, would have kept but one kerchief for weekdays and
another for Sunday - these girls feel vastly fine in a "three-story
hat" which might well vie with the historic coat of Joseph. In the
land of equality shall not one wear what another wears? Shall not
Fifth Avenue and Grand Street walk hand in hand - the lion and the
lamb lie down together? It would be rank heresy to insinuate that
there is anything faulty in the process of "Americanizing" as it
goes on on the East Side.
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